Incastreasures Products information
Alpaca Fur Rugs and Bedspreads
Our alpaca fur rugs and
bedspreads are more “decorative” and “light use” items than those used for heavy,
functional use. This is not to say that you cannot “use” your alpaca fur. Quite
the contrary! We simply mean that they are not made to sleep on every night.
Neither are these alpaca furs to be put on the floor in your major traffic areas.
Here is the rule of thumb for alpacas: “light use and little walking traffic”.
You may brush your alpaca
fur with either a wire pet brush or a hairbrush. This works particularly well
when it gets matted from sitting or laying on it.
Should you wish to store
your alpaca fur rug, avoid direct sunlight and store it in a cool airy place.
Storing your alpaca rug in plastic bags for any length of time is not advisable.
You want your fur to be able to breathe and using plastic bags prevents this. In
addition, condensation may occur in warm conditions if plastic is used.
Alpaca fur is not machine
Your alpaca fur will need to be taken to a professional furrier to be cleaned
which can be expensive. For that reason, and for the fact that they are a more
delicate item, care should be taken to keep it clean in the first place.
For spills or spot cleaning, a sponge with a mild soap and water solution will
work best. Make certain that you don't get the leather wet by using so much
liquid that it penetrates through the fur, down to the leather.
Periodically using some kind of talcum powder will help to keep your alpaca fur
When dry cleaning:
We recommend you only dry clean once a year, if necessary. Remember to bring any
or all labels which may have come with the garment. Clean multiple pieces at the
same time so as to avoid any color discrepancies. Ask the dry cleaner to use
fresh solvent in low heat and a process that does not involve tumbling of the
garment. Only use an established dry cleaner that has dealt with alpaca fiber.
When hand washing:
Gently hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Never use bleach. When
removing excess water press down, never wring or twist, as it will distort and/or
wrinkle the garment. Dry flat. Block the garment by reshaping it to its original
dimensions. Gently smooth by hand while wet to remove any wrinkles. Never use
any brush. After the garment has dried, touch up with a warm iron as needed.
To keep your stuffed animal fresh, give it a dry bath on occasion with baking
soda. Just sprinkle the baking soda on the stuffed animal and let it sit for
about 15 minutes. Then simply brush it off.
The basic tools for plush care are a hair brush and a
damp cloth. An old terry washcloth is perfect for the damp cloth. Brushes
with metal bristles, intended for pet care, can work very well on plush but can
tear up the backing fabric if not used carefully. You want a brush with well-spaced
stiff plastic bristles for most uses.
A vacuum cleaner and a lint roller are additional
options for dusting.
For long fur, use the brush gently to separate snarls.
Remember that any hair pulled out with the brush probably will not grow back, so
brush gently. The brush will also lift out dust or debris buried in the fur.
Give the surface another swipe with the damp cloth after brushing to remove
anything the brush lifted.
A lint roller can be used instead of a damp cloth. The
lint roller works especially well on pet hair. In our house there are four cats
and a dog as well as lots of plush, and plushes that are near cat walkways have
to get lint-rolled fairly often.
Pay attention to the style of fur you're working with!
Don't brush out a plush surface that is supposed to look felted, tangled or
woolly. Stick to lint rollers or vacuums for such material.
We have 2 payment options:
Hand wash is recommended for baby alpaca garment using a gentle, wool friendly
detergent and lukewarm water. Let your alpaca garment soak for during about
Gently squeeze the
water through to loosen additional dirt, then drain the water, and squeeze again.
Gently lift the project, supporting it from below, taking care not to let it
If necessary, repeat the rinse. Repeat this procedure until eliminate detergent
To hasten the drying
process, roll the garment between bath towels and stand on them to force out as
much water as possible.
Finally, lay the
garment on a flat surface and make sure that conserves its original form, the
garment must be away from direct sunlight and away from any direct heat sources,
most important is keep the garment in an area with good air circulation
Our leathers are
washable for easy care. For best results-
· Produce a good lather in lukewarm water using mild detergent or soap flakes
· Wash gently on your hands.
· Remove item and rinse thoroughly in clean water.
· Gently squeeze out all excess water and pull gently into shape.
· Hang to dry away from direct sunlight or heat.
· For best results wash items before they become too soiled!
Wash pewter in warm water using a mild detergent. Dry thoroughly with a soft
2. Make a paste of 1 tsp. salt, 1 cup vinegar and about a half-cup flour.
Apply to pewter, then rinse and dry with a soft cloth.
3. Polish pewter with a paste made of rottenstone (decomposed limestone,
which is available at
and boiled linseed oil. Then wash the pewter in warm, soapy water, rinse and
4. Use a commercial pewter-cleaning product if desired. Follow directions
exactly. If you use a commercial polish, make sure it is formulated
especially for pewter. Do not use silver or brass polish.
Pima Cotton Clothing Care:
100% Pima Cotton. Pima cotton is a grade of cotton, so named because it is
traditionally grown in the southwest United States by Pima Indians. Because
of the fineness of Pima cotton, more fibers can be spun into the yarn, which
will enhance the feel, softness and brilliance the fabric.
Care Instructions: Machine wash warm, non-chlorine bleach. Tumble dry.
Wash dark colors separately.
Pottery,About Chulucanas Pottery
This pottery is
made using a traditional Native American low-fire process, and like all such
pottery it is not recommended that water be put in it. Letting water sit in
the pot for an extended period will cause the black smoked areas to pop off
the surface, and will cause the salts in the clay to crystallize on the
surface, destroying the pot.
Anyway, with their stark contemporary and sculptural appearance the pieces
look best with nothing in them at all, used as pieces of sculptural
decoration all by themselves. They also look great with dried flowers,
dried cattails, peacock feathers, or just a dead branch of manzanita or
bamboo placed artistically in them.
This is also a type of smoked pottery -- the black background on the pieces
is not a glaze, but is actually smoked onto the pieces in a separate process
using a kind of oven. Being smoke it can and will fade if exposed for long
periods to direct sunlight. It's best to keep the pieces out of bright
light, unless you want them to fade - and they fade in a very spectacular
It's a good idea to wash
silver separately from your other dishes because metal sinks and utensils
can scratch silver, and stainless steel can damage the finish if it comes
into contact with your silver.
Avoid using rubber gloves when washing silver, as rubber corrodes silver.
Use a soft cloth to gently rub the silver clean, and dry promptly with a
soft towel. Gently buff the shine into dull silver with a soft cotton cloth.
Polish your silver. When tarnish develops on silver, simple hand washing may
not suffice to remove it. Specially formulated silver polishes are your
safest option for polishing silver, especially if you are dealing with an
antique or a piece that has intricate designs etched into it.
Take a bit of polish. Moisten a soft silver-polishing cloth or the sponge
included with the silver polish and take a little bit of polish.
Rub the silver gently.Rub the silver only in straight-line, back-and-forth
motions (not in circles). Avoid scrubbing; rather, let the polish do the job.
Rinse under running water. Rinse the silver under running water.
Dry. Dry the silver completely with a soft, clean cloth.
Consider using common household products for less rare or less valuable
pieces. They will usually work, but may cause damage. Try them at your own
Make a paste of baking soda and warm water.
Gently polish following the directions for toothpaste above.
Give your silver a bath. Commercial silver "dips" are available which can
dissolve stains without rubbing the silver. Contrary to what the word "dip"
implies, professionals rarely actually soak silver in these products, at
least not for long. Dips are generally harsh, potentially dangerous
chemicals (both to the silver and to yourself), so follow the directions
carefully and consult a professional when in doubt. You can, however, make a
gentle homemade silver bath that gets rid of stains and tarnish by an
electrochemical reaction. Be aware that both dipping and electrochemical
baths can potentially damage your silver, and they will remove desirable
patina, so they're not recommended for silver with an oxidized or French
Heat up an appropriately sized container of water and dissolve a large
amount of table salt into the water. Use enough salt such that it takes at
least a minute to dissolve in the hot water with constant stirring. Washing
Soda (such as Arm and Hammer) works as well.
Shape a liner for the container from aluminum foil and place the foil in the
container of hot water (danger--do not touch the hot water!).
Place silver that has been previously cleaned with soap into the bath
(inside of the foil) for several minutes. Tarnish should dissolve away.
For stubborn spots, remove and clean with soap and a damp rag before
reimmersing in the bath.
Warning: This will remove any tarnish, even the antique-y ones. Dispose of
salt water down the drain after cooling. This is a simple reaction between
the aluminum metal and the silver sulfide (tarnish). The table salt acts as
an electrolyte to allow the reaction to happen.
Store your silver correctly. Beyond prompt and frequent cleaning, the best
way to preserve your silver is to store it correctly. Make sure each piece
is completely dry before storing it. For silverware, wrap each piece in
acid-free tissue paper or anti-tarnish paper. You can also wrap pieces in
flannel (special flannels are made just for this purpose). Seal the wrapped
silver pieces in an airtight plastic bag. Whether you put away your silver
in a bag or you put it in a display case, a canister of silica gel placed
nearby can help reduce humidity and ward off tarnish. Never store silver
where it can contact rubber, stainless steel, or paint.
Dry cleaning is the best method for the long-term care of our fabrics.
Please be aware that WARM water and/or heat from a dryer will cause
Dry clean only. May be refreshed with a steamer. Do not machine wash.
Hand wash cold, dry flat. Dry cleaning would work as well, but this can
be impractical due to the small size of the patches.
Before you decide how to clean your piece of furniture, you need to
determine what type of finish it has on it. You can find information about
cleaners and conditioners for wood furniture
and information on getting built-up finishes off to expose the beautiful
wood underneath. Check these
tips on caring for hardwood furniture
from the American Hardwood Information Center.
You should use a lint-free cloth to polish your
furniture on a regular basis. Use just a little furniture polish on the
cloth and rub the surface to get a beautiful shine.
When choosing a furniture polish, use the same type
for each cleaning, either oil- or wax-based, to avoid polish smudges. Wipe
in the direction of the grain of the wood whenever possible.
If you love antiques, you'll need to be aware of
their special needs. You'll find helpful information from
eHow.com on cleaning antique furniture.
When it comes time to remove built-up wax, use either mineral spirits or a
synthetic turpentine with a soft, lint-free cloth. Clean the entire piece
with the product, not just the area that's soiled.